Although I am a Chablis-drinking, brie-eating, east coast elitist -- according to some people's definition -- I must confess that the humble donut is near the very top of my list of favorite foods. What's not to love about fried dough? Having said that, I do not consider Dunkin' Donuts much to shake a stick at.
While Durham lacks in serious donut-making, I was thoroughly delighed to see Amy Tornquist from Watt's Grocery mentioned in a NYT article on doughnuts. Her churros, fried dough coated in cinnamon sugar with a chocolate dipping sauce, get a special mention. An adaptation of her recipe accompanies the article.
In addition to Amy's recipe for churros, there are two other recipes. I am gearing up to give one of the recipes a try this weekend. I've never made doughnuts or beignets or anything of this sort.
I am wondering if I can use a deep, iron wok for frying. This is one of the rare occasions when a deep fat fryer might actually be useful. Hot oil terrifies me. Once I caught a roll of paper towels on fire when deep frying.
Will the effort and calories be worth the at-home effort or is it better to get a fried dough fix at Watt's Grocery or Rue Cler? I guess I'll find out. If anyone has any suggestions or tip on making doughnuts at home, let me know before I burn my house down this weekend.
Showing posts with label chocolate. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chocolate. Show all posts
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Daring Bakers: White chocolate opera cake
After the questionable cheesecake-on-a-stick recipe, I was was very pleased to find out that the May challenge recipe for the Daring Bakers was a delightful French confection known as an opera cake. Generally an opera cake is made with dark chocolate. Our version specified that we had to use white chocolate and other flavorings light in color in honor of springtime. It's a beautiful, elegant recipe that tastes fantastic! Homemade real buttercream is well worth the trouble.
This recipe and this posting are dedicated to Barbara of Winos and Foodies in appreciation for her courage and activism in the face of cancer. Good job, Barbara! Keep up the good fight!
Several components comprise an opera cake: layers of almond cake called a joconde, flavored simple syrup, buttercream, mousse, and a ganache topping. I knew this recipe would be time consuming. I decided to flavor it with Chambord, a raspberry liquor, and fresh raspberries.
This recipe is based on recipes in Dorie Greenspan’s Paris Sweets and Tish Boyle and Timothy Moriarty’s Chocolate Passion.
For the joconde:
What you’ll need:
•2 12½ x 15½-inch (31 x 39-cm) jelly-roll pans (Note: If you do not have jelly-roll pans this size, do not fear! You can use different-sized jelly-roll pans like 10 x 15-inches.)
•a few tablespoons of melted butter (in addition to what’s called for in the ingredients’ list) and a brush (to grease the pans)
•parchment paper
•a whisk and a paddle attachment for a stand mixer or for a handheld mixer
•two mixing bowls (you can make do with one but it’s preferable to have two)
Ingredients:
6 large egg whites, at room temperature
2 tbsp. (30 grams) granulated sugar
2 cups (225 grams) ground blanched almonds (Note: If you do not want to use almond meal, you can use another nut meal like hazelnut. You can buy almond meal in bulk food stores or health food stores, or you can make it at home by grinding almonds in the food processor with a tablespoon or two of the flour that you would use in the cake. The reason you need the flour is to prevent the almonds from turning oily or pasty in the processor. You will need about 2 cups of blanched almonds to create enough almond meal for this cake.)
2 cups icing sugar, sifted
6 large eggs
½ cup (70 grams) all-purpose flour
3 tbsp. (1½ ounces; 45 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1.Divide the oven into thirds by positioning a rack in the upper third of the oven and the lower third of the oven.
2.Preheat the oven to 425◦F. (220◦C).
3.Line two 12½ x 15½- inch (31 x 39-cm) jelly-roll pans with parchment paper and brush with melted butter.
4.In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or using a handheld mixer), beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Add the granulated sugar and beat until the peaks are stiff and glossy. If you do not have another mixer bowl, gently scrape the meringue into another bowl and set aside.
5.If you only have one bowl, wash it after removing the egg whites or if you have a second bowl, use that one. Attach the paddle attachment to the stand mixer (or using a handheld mixer again) and beat the almonds, icing sugar and eggs on medium speed until light and voluminous, about 3 minutes.
6.Add the flour and beat on low speed until the flour is just combined (be very careful not to overmix here!!!).
7.Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the meringue into the almond mixture and then fold in the melted butter. Divide the batter between the pans and spread it evenly to cover the entire surface of each pan.
8.Bake the cake layers until they are lightly browned and just springy to the touch. This could take anywhere from 5 to 9 minutes depending on your oven. Place one jelly-roll pan in the middle of the oven and the second jelly-roll pan in the bottom third of the oven.
9.Put the pans on a heatproof counter and run a sharp knife along the edges of the cake to loosen it from the pan. Cover each with a sheet of parchment or wax paper, turn the pans over, and unmold.
10.Carefully peel away the parchment, then turn the parchment over and use it to cover the cakes. Let the cakes cool to room temperature.
For the syrup:
What you’ll need:
•a small saucepan
Ingredients:
½ cup (125 grams) water
⅓ cup (65 grams) granulated sugar
1 to 2 tbsp. of the flavouring of your choice (i.e., vanilla extract, raspberry liquor, almond extract, cognac, limoncello, coconut cream, honey etc.)
1.Stir all the syrup ingredients together in the saucepan and bring to a boil.
2.Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.
For the buttercream:
What you’ll need:
•a small saucepan
•a candy or instant-read thermometer
•a stand mixer or handheld mixer
•a bowl and a whisk attachment
•rubber spatula
Ingredients:
2 cups sugar
½ cup water and
1¾ cups butter
1 tbsp. pure vanilla extract
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
flavouring of your choice (a tablespoon of an extract, a few tablespoons of melted white chocolate, citrus zest, etc.)
1.Combine the sugar, water and vanilla bean seeds or extract in a small saucepan and warm over medium heat just until the sugar dissolves.
2.Continue to cook, without stirring, until the syrup reaches 225◦F (107◦C) .
3.While the syrup is heating, begin whisking the egg and egg yolk at high speed in the bowl of your mixer using the whisk attachment. Whisk them until they are pale and foamy.
4.When the sugar syrup reaches the correct temperature and you remove it from the heat, reduce the mixer speed to low speed and begin slowly (very slowly) pouring the syrup down the side of the bowl being very careful not to splatter the syrup into the path of the whisk attachment. Some of the syrup will spin onto the sides of the bowl but don’t worry about this and don’t try to stir it into the mixture as it will harden!
5.Raise the speed to medium-high and continue beating until the eggs are thick and satiny and the mixture is cool to the touch (about 5 minutes or so).
6.While the egg mixture is beating, place the softened butter in a bowl and mash it with a spatula until you have a soft creamy mass.
7.With the mixer on medium speed, begin adding in two-tablespoon chunks. When all the butter has been incorporated, raise the mixer speed to high and beat until the buttercream is thick and shiny.
8.At this point add in your flavouring and beat for an additional minute or so.
9.Refrigerate the buttercream, stirring it often, until it’s set enough (firm enough) to spread when topped with a layer of cake (about 20 minutes).
For the white chocolate mousse:
What you’ll need:
•a small saucepan
•a mixer or handheld mixer
Ingredients:
7 ounces white chocolate
1 cup plus 3 tbsp. heavy cream (35% cream)
1 tbsp. liquer of your choice (Bailey’s, Amaretto, etc.)
1.Melt the white chocolate and the 3 tbsp. of heavy cream in a small saucepan.
2.Stir to ensure that it’s smooth and that the chocolate is melted. Add the tablespoon of liqueur to the chocolate and stir. Set aside to cool completely.
3.In the bowl of a stand mixer, whip the remaining 1 cup of heavy cream until soft peaks form.
4.Gently fold the whipped cream into the cooled chocolate to form a mousse.
5.If it’s too thin, refrigerate it for a bit until it’s spreadable.
6.If you’re not going to use it right away, refrigerate until you’re ready to use.
For the glaze
What you’ll need:
•a small saucepan or double boiler
Ingredients:
14 ounces white chocolate, coarsely chopped
½ cup heavy cream (35% cream)
1.Melt the white chocolate with the heavy cream. Whisk the mixture gently until smooth.
2.Let cool for 10 minutes and then pour over the chilled cake. Using a long metal cake spatula, smooth out into an even layer.
3.Place the cake into the refrigerator for 30 minutes to set.
Assembling the Opéra Cake
(Note: The finished cake should be served slightly chilled. It can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 1 day).
Line a baking sheet with parchment or wax paper.
Working with one sheet of cake at a time, cut and trim each sheet so that you have two pieces (from each cake so you’ll have four pieces in total): one 10-inch (25-cm) square and one 10 x 5-inch (25 x 12½-cm) rectangle.
Place one square of cake on the baking sheet and moisten it gently with the flavoured syrup. Spread about three-quarters of the buttercream over this layer.
Top with the two rectangular pieces of cake, placing them side by side to form a square. Moisten these pieces with the flavoured syrup.
Spread the remaining buttercream on the cake and then top with the third square of joconde. Use the remaining syrup to wet the joconde and then refrigerate until very firm (at least half an hour).
Prepare the ganache/mousse (if you haven’t already) and then spread it on the top of the last layer of the joconde. Refrigerate for at least two to three hours to give the ganache/mousse the opportunity to firm up.
Make the glaze and after it has cooled, pour/spread it over the top of the chilled cake. Refrigerate the cake again to set the glaze.
Serve the cake slightly chilled. This recipe will yield approximately 20 servings.
This recipe and this posting are dedicated to Barbara of Winos and Foodies in appreciation for her courage and activism in the face of cancer. Good job, Barbara! Keep up the good fight!
Several components comprise an opera cake: layers of almond cake called a joconde, flavored simple syrup, buttercream, mousse, and a ganache topping. I knew this recipe would be time consuming. I decided to flavor it with Chambord, a raspberry liquor, and fresh raspberries.
This recipe is based on recipes in Dorie Greenspan’s Paris Sweets and Tish Boyle and Timothy Moriarty’s Chocolate Passion.
For the joconde:
What you’ll need:
•2 12½ x 15½-inch (31 x 39-cm) jelly-roll pans (Note: If you do not have jelly-roll pans this size, do not fear! You can use different-sized jelly-roll pans like 10 x 15-inches.)
•a few tablespoons of melted butter (in addition to what’s called for in the ingredients’ list) and a brush (to grease the pans)
•parchment paper
•a whisk and a paddle attachment for a stand mixer or for a handheld mixer
•two mixing bowls (you can make do with one but it’s preferable to have two)
Ingredients:
6 large egg whites, at room temperature
2 tbsp. (30 grams) granulated sugar
2 cups (225 grams) ground blanched almonds (Note: If you do not want to use almond meal, you can use another nut meal like hazelnut. You can buy almond meal in bulk food stores or health food stores, or you can make it at home by grinding almonds in the food processor with a tablespoon or two of the flour that you would use in the cake. The reason you need the flour is to prevent the almonds from turning oily or pasty in the processor. You will need about 2 cups of blanched almonds to create enough almond meal for this cake.)
2 cups icing sugar, sifted
6 large eggs
½ cup (70 grams) all-purpose flour
3 tbsp. (1½ ounces; 45 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1.Divide the oven into thirds by positioning a rack in the upper third of the oven and the lower third of the oven.
2.Preheat the oven to 425◦F. (220◦C).
3.Line two 12½ x 15½- inch (31 x 39-cm) jelly-roll pans with parchment paper and brush with melted butter.
4.In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or using a handheld mixer), beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Add the granulated sugar and beat until the peaks are stiff and glossy. If you do not have another mixer bowl, gently scrape the meringue into another bowl and set aside.
5.If you only have one bowl, wash it after removing the egg whites or if you have a second bowl, use that one. Attach the paddle attachment to the stand mixer (or using a handheld mixer again) and beat the almonds, icing sugar and eggs on medium speed until light and voluminous, about 3 minutes.
6.Add the flour and beat on low speed until the flour is just combined (be very careful not to overmix here!!!).
7.Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the meringue into the almond mixture and then fold in the melted butter. Divide the batter between the pans and spread it evenly to cover the entire surface of each pan.
8.Bake the cake layers until they are lightly browned and just springy to the touch. This could take anywhere from 5 to 9 minutes depending on your oven. Place one jelly-roll pan in the middle of the oven and the second jelly-roll pan in the bottom third of the oven.
9.Put the pans on a heatproof counter and run a sharp knife along the edges of the cake to loosen it from the pan. Cover each with a sheet of parchment or wax paper, turn the pans over, and unmold.
10.Carefully peel away the parchment, then turn the parchment over and use it to cover the cakes. Let the cakes cool to room temperature.
For the syrup:
What you’ll need:
•a small saucepan
Ingredients:
½ cup (125 grams) water
⅓ cup (65 grams) granulated sugar
1 to 2 tbsp. of the flavouring of your choice (i.e., vanilla extract, raspberry liquor, almond extract, cognac, limoncello, coconut cream, honey etc.)
1.Stir all the syrup ingredients together in the saucepan and bring to a boil.
2.Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.
For the buttercream:
What you’ll need:
•a small saucepan
•a candy or instant-read thermometer
•a stand mixer or handheld mixer
•a bowl and a whisk attachment
•rubber spatula
Ingredients:
2 cups sugar
½ cup water and
1¾ cups butter
1 tbsp. pure vanilla extract
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
flavouring of your choice (a tablespoon of an extract, a few tablespoons of melted white chocolate, citrus zest, etc.)
1.Combine the sugar, water and vanilla bean seeds or extract in a small saucepan and warm over medium heat just until the sugar dissolves.
2.Continue to cook, without stirring, until the syrup reaches 225◦F (107◦C) .
3.While the syrup is heating, begin whisking the egg and egg yolk at high speed in the bowl of your mixer using the whisk attachment. Whisk them until they are pale and foamy.
4.When the sugar syrup reaches the correct temperature and you remove it from the heat, reduce the mixer speed to low speed and begin slowly (very slowly) pouring the syrup down the side of the bowl being very careful not to splatter the syrup into the path of the whisk attachment. Some of the syrup will spin onto the sides of the bowl but don’t worry about this and don’t try to stir it into the mixture as it will harden!
5.Raise the speed to medium-high and continue beating until the eggs are thick and satiny and the mixture is cool to the touch (about 5 minutes or so).
6.While the egg mixture is beating, place the softened butter in a bowl and mash it with a spatula until you have a soft creamy mass.
7.With the mixer on medium speed, begin adding in two-tablespoon chunks. When all the butter has been incorporated, raise the mixer speed to high and beat until the buttercream is thick and shiny.
8.At this point add in your flavouring and beat for an additional minute or so.
9.Refrigerate the buttercream, stirring it often, until it’s set enough (firm enough) to spread when topped with a layer of cake (about 20 minutes).
For the white chocolate mousse:
What you’ll need:
•a small saucepan
•a mixer or handheld mixer
Ingredients:
7 ounces white chocolate
1 cup plus 3 tbsp. heavy cream (35% cream)
1 tbsp. liquer of your choice (Bailey’s, Amaretto, etc.)
1.Melt the white chocolate and the 3 tbsp. of heavy cream in a small saucepan.
2.Stir to ensure that it’s smooth and that the chocolate is melted. Add the tablespoon of liqueur to the chocolate and stir. Set aside to cool completely.
3.In the bowl of a stand mixer, whip the remaining 1 cup of heavy cream until soft peaks form.
4.Gently fold the whipped cream into the cooled chocolate to form a mousse.
5.If it’s too thin, refrigerate it for a bit until it’s spreadable.
6.If you’re not going to use it right away, refrigerate until you’re ready to use.
For the glaze
What you’ll need:
•a small saucepan or double boiler
Ingredients:
14 ounces white chocolate, coarsely chopped
½ cup heavy cream (35% cream)
1.Melt the white chocolate with the heavy cream. Whisk the mixture gently until smooth.
2.Let cool for 10 minutes and then pour over the chilled cake. Using a long metal cake spatula, smooth out into an even layer.
3.Place the cake into the refrigerator for 30 minutes to set.
Assembling the Opéra Cake
(Note: The finished cake should be served slightly chilled. It can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 1 day).
Line a baking sheet with parchment or wax paper.
Working with one sheet of cake at a time, cut and trim each sheet so that you have two pieces (from each cake so you’ll have four pieces in total): one 10-inch (25-cm) square and one 10 x 5-inch (25 x 12½-cm) rectangle.
Place one square of cake on the baking sheet and moisten it gently with the flavoured syrup. Spread about three-quarters of the buttercream over this layer.
Top with the two rectangular pieces of cake, placing them side by side to form a square. Moisten these pieces with the flavoured syrup.
Spread the remaining buttercream on the cake and then top with the third square of joconde. Use the remaining syrup to wet the joconde and then refrigerate until very firm (at least half an hour).
Prepare the ganache/mousse (if you haven’t already) and then spread it on the top of the last layer of the joconde. Refrigerate for at least two to three hours to give the ganache/mousse the opportunity to firm up.
Make the glaze and after it has cooled, pour/spread it over the top of the chilled cake. Refrigerate the cake again to set the glaze.
Serve the cake slightly chilled. This recipe will yield approximately 20 servings.
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Daring Bakers: Chocolate cheesecake on a stick
I joined a group of online bakers some months ago. Each month we are given a recipe that everyone tries and then on the same day we post about our results.
In March I was too traumatized about my Tibet trip to cook an elaborate cake. Then in April I made the recipe and forgot to post it! Oops! So now, two weeks late, here is my version of the Daring Bakers' chocolate cheesecake on a stick:
I am not going to share the recipe with you because, frankly, I did not like this recipe. When I first read the recipe I was sorely disappointed. I love chocolate and I love cheesecake but not together. I don't know why. I also believe that neither dark, luscious, French chocolate nor unctuous, creamy cheesecake should ever suffer the ignominy of being put on a stick.
Should you be compelled to try this, all you have to do is make any cheesecake according to the recipe but without the crust. Then you chill it and roll it into balls and put sticks you've bought from Michael's craft store in them. Then you put the balls in the freezer to harden for several hours. Melt some chocolate an dip the balls in it. If you really want to go for broke then roll them in rainbow sprinkles.
These might be fun for a party. The downside is that the cheesecake balls fall off of the sticks as soon as they get to room temp.
So, on second thought, just make a nice cheesecake and forget the sticks.
In March I was too traumatized about my Tibet trip to cook an elaborate cake. Then in April I made the recipe and forgot to post it! Oops! So now, two weeks late, here is my version of the Daring Bakers' chocolate cheesecake on a stick:
I am not going to share the recipe with you because, frankly, I did not like this recipe. When I first read the recipe I was sorely disappointed. I love chocolate and I love cheesecake but not together. I don't know why. I also believe that neither dark, luscious, French chocolate nor unctuous, creamy cheesecake should ever suffer the ignominy of being put on a stick.
Should you be compelled to try this, all you have to do is make any cheesecake according to the recipe but without the crust. Then you chill it and roll it into balls and put sticks you've bought from Michael's craft store in them. Then you put the balls in the freezer to harden for several hours. Melt some chocolate an dip the balls in it. If you really want to go for broke then roll them in rainbow sprinkles.
These might be fun for a party. The downside is that the cheesecake balls fall off of the sticks as soon as they get to room temp.
So, on second thought, just make a nice cheesecake and forget the sticks.
Wednesday, April 30, 2008
Chocolate pudding
Last week's New York Times Food section had several variations on the theme of chocolate pudding. I love chocolate pudding! It reminds me of being a kid. My brother and I would beg my mom to make us pudding as a special treat. It usually came out of a box, but we didn't care. When I saw the recipe for chocolate pudding with bananas, I decided to try it for a small dinner party on Sunday. Everyone loved it. I decided that it was more like chocolate pudding with bananas rather than a chocolate banana pudding. In fact, it would probably be delicious with strawberries instead of bananas. My next recipe in the pudding family will be pots de creme. I have found several good recipes including one from the NYT so I need to study them to see which one I should try.
Chocolate and banana pudding:
5 ounces milk chocolate, finely chopped
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
2 tablespoons cornstarch
Pinch salt
2 egg yolks
1 1/2 cups whole milk
1/2 cup heavy cream, plus 1 cup whipped
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 large bananas, thinly sliced
14 whole chocolate wafer cookies, plus 4 crushed, for garnish (I like Pepperidge Farm chocolate chessmen).
1. Place chocolate in a bowl. In a separate large bowl, sift together sugar, cocoa, cornstarch and salt; whisk in egg yolks and 1/2 cup milk until smooth.
2. In a large saucepan over high heat, bring remaining 1 cup milk and 1/2 cup cream to a simmer. Pour over chopped chocolate and whisk until smooth. Whisking constantly, slowly pour hot chocolate mixture into egg mixture until completely incorporated and cocoa is dissolved.
3. Return custard to saucepan. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat, until thickened, about 10 minutes. Do not let mixture reach a simmer. If custard begins to steam heavily, stir it, off the heat, a moment before returning it to stove top. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Stir in vanilla.
4. Spread several tablespoons pudding evenly into an 8-inch square pan (or a glass bowl). Top with an even layer of bananas; arrange whole cookies on top of bananas. Cover with remaining pudding. Top with whipped cream and sprinkle with crushed cookies. Chill at least 3 hours or overnight before serving.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings.
Saturday, April 19, 2008
Chocolate cupcakes
Cupcakes have been very trendy for the past couple of years. Some friends of mine got married and had cupcakes arranged on a large multi-tiered plate instead of wedding cake. Bakeries all around town have begun selling pretty, decorated cupcakes. In NYC there are entire bakeries dedicated to taking the humble cupcake to new heights of elegance and sophistication. Cupcakes have a lot going for them: they are single portions, they don't require a fork, and they can support a generous amount of frosting.
My favorite cupcake recipe comes from the March 2005 Cooks' Illustrated. Currently the recipe is available for free on their subscription Web site, but I've also copied it below.
It makes twelve cupcakes and cannot be doubled. The cupcakes come out with a tender, moist crumb and a rich, chocolate taste. I have topped them with coffee flavored frosting, peanut butter frosting, and chocolate frosting. The coffee frosting is great but I doubt children would like it so keep that recipe for adults! I know that I would have been woefully disappointed as a child if I bit into a delicious homemade cupcake only to discover it had coffee frosting!
Dark chocolate cupcakes:
Easy coffee buttercream:
My favorite cupcake recipe comes from the March 2005 Cooks' Illustrated. Currently the recipe is available for free on their subscription Web site, but I've also copied it below.
It makes twelve cupcakes and cannot be doubled. The cupcakes come out with a tender, moist crumb and a rich, chocolate taste. I have topped them with coffee flavored frosting, peanut butter frosting, and chocolate frosting. The coffee frosting is great but I doubt children would like it so keep that recipe for adults! I know that I would have been woefully disappointed as a child if I bit into a delicious homemade cupcake only to discover it had coffee frosting!
Dark chocolate cupcakes:
Easy coffee buttercream:
| |||||||||||||
In standing mixer fitted with whisk attachment, beat butter at medium-high speed until smooth, about 20 seconds. Add confectioners' sugar and salt; beat at medium-low speed until most of the sugar is moistened, about 45 seconds. Scrape down bowl and beat at medium speed until mixture is fully combined, about 15 seconds; scrape bowl. Dissolve instant espresso in vanilla and cream, and beat at medium speed until incorporated, about 10 seconds, then increase speed to medium-high and beat until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes, scraping down bowl once or twice. The frosting may be made ahead and refrigerated but bring it to room temperature before using. The recipe may be doubled to make enough for a two layer cake. | |||||||||||||
Sunday, January 20, 2008
How NOT to melt chocolate
Tonight I need to take something sweet to a party. I decided to make some chocolate peanut butter bars which are basically a peanut butter and brown sugar base covered in melted milk and dark chocolate and butter. How hard could this be? The recipe, from Nigella Lawson, doesn't require any cooking except for melting the chocolates and butter. The recipe suggested microwaving the chocolate for a couple of minutes to melt it. I was a little skeptical because chocolate burns very easily in the microwave but I thought I'd give it a try. What an unmitigated disaster that was!
I must confess to having a love / hate (well mostly hate) relationship with the microwave. I see it as an overpriced, large, leftover warmer that is frankly rather scary.
Melting chocolate, especially expensive dark choc that I don't want to ruin, requires a gentle touch. The temperature must be controlled or the chocolate will move past the melted stage to a glop of burnt, inedible goo. I do not have much luck in controlling the temp of food in the microwave. Maybe more experienced people do. Who knows. I prefer the old-fashioned bain-marie technique for melting chocolate. I improvise a bain-marie with the pans in my cupboard by putting some water in the bottom of a pan, letting it come to a rolling boil, and then putting another pan on top of it to melt the chocolate. If you do this, be sure not to let the boiling water touch the bottom of the pan on top.
Since the peanut butter bars didn't turn out so well, I may try some macadamia nut cookies.
I must confess to having a love / hate (well mostly hate) relationship with the microwave. I see it as an overpriced, large, leftover warmer that is frankly rather scary.
Melting chocolate, especially expensive dark choc that I don't want to ruin, requires a gentle touch. The temperature must be controlled or the chocolate will move past the melted stage to a glop of burnt, inedible goo. I do not have much luck in controlling the temp of food in the microwave. Maybe more experienced people do. Who knows. I prefer the old-fashioned bain-marie technique for melting chocolate. I improvise a bain-marie with the pans in my cupboard by putting some water in the bottom of a pan, letting it come to a rolling boil, and then putting another pan on top of it to melt the chocolate. If you do this, be sure not to let the boiling water touch the bottom of the pan on top.
Since the peanut butter bars didn't turn out so well, I may try some macadamia nut cookies.
Sunday, December 23, 2007
Daring Bakers: Yule Log
Happy Christmas, friends! The December challenge for the Daring Bakers was, in the spirit of the holidays, a recipe for a yule log or buche de noel. It was far more challenging than the 
potato bread from last month! Somehow I managed to pull it off but not without my brother and refering to The Cake Bible.
The yule log cake is an ancient tradition, probably pagan, but now associated with the Christmas holiday season.
The Daring Bakers' challenge comprised three main components: a genoise cake, buttercream frosting, and meringue or marzipan mushroom decorations. None of these elements are easy on their own and in combination I have to confess that this recipe was a bit daunting, especially right before Christmas.
I decided to try this recipe with my brother, who is an accomplished cake baker, with assistance from his two little girls ages three and five. We made the cake at my mother's house. That added another layer of complexity because neither of us were cooking in our own kitchen.
We experienced two major yule log disasters: the genoise didn't quite roll up and the buttercream tasted awful! We realized the pound of butter in my mom's fridge was SALTED! (Salted butter is only good melted and for dipping lobster in). So we had to start that over, but that wasn't a bad thing because we decided to make a frosting without butter so lactose intolerant among us could eat it. Neither the genoise nor the mushroom decorations contain dairy.
First I made meringue mushrooms dusted with cocoa powder. They look adorable and exactly like real mushrooms complete with dirt.
The next day we made the genoise. It is made without dairy or a leavener. It relies solely on eggs to make it light. We poured it into a jelly roll pan so it was very thin and only cooked for 10 minutes. When we rolled it up we ran into trouble. The cake didn't quite want to roll up, but we easily remedied that with a liberal use of frosting.
We made the buttercream while the cake was cooking but next time we will make the buttercream before making the cake. It takes longer than 10 minutes to make buttercream. Our first batch of buttercream was an umitigated disaster. We decided to do a non-dairy buttercream for the second batch. It turned out great, though not as great as real buttercream would have been, and it was very easy to spread.
Before rolling up the cake, we drizzled it with sugar water, a treatment for genoise that my brother learned in The Cake Bible. Then frosted the flat cake, rolled it up, and frosted the outside. We used the tines of a fork to give the log a bit of rustic texture. Then we dusted it with powdered sugar for a bit of snow effect and garnished it with the meringue mushrooms. We will eat it on Christmas Eve.
RECIPES
Meringue mushrooms:
3 large egg whites, at room temperature
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
½ cup (3-1/2 ounces/105 g.) granulated sugar
1/3 cup (1-1/3 ounces/40 g.) icing sugar
Unsweetened cocoa powder for dusting
1.Preheat the oven to 225 degrees F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment. Have ready a pastry bag fitted with a small (no. 6) plain tip. In a bowl, using a mixer on medium-low speed, beat together the egg whites and cream of tartar until very foamy. Slowly add the granulated sugar while beating. Increase the speed to high and beat until soft peaks form when the beaters are lifted. Continue until the whites hold stiff, shiny peaks. Sift the icing sugar over the whites and, using a rubber spatula, fold in until well blended.
2.Scoop the mixture into the bag. On one baking sheet, pipe 48 stems, each ½ inch (12 mm.) wide at the base and tapering off to a point at the top, ¾ inch (2 cm.) tall, and spaced about ½ inch (12 mm.) apart. On the other sheet, pipe 48 mounds for the tops, each about 1-1/4 inches (3 cm.) wide and ¾ inch (2 cm.) high, also spaced ½ inch (12 mm.) apart. With a damp fingertip, gently smooth any pointy tips. Dust with cocoa. Reserve the remaining meringue.
3.Bake until dry and firm enough to lift off the paper, 50-55 minutes. Set the pans on the counter and turn the mounds flat side up. With the tip of a knife, carefully make a small hole in the flat side of each mound. Pipe small dabs of the remaining meringue into the holes and insert the stems tip first. Return to the oven until completely dry, about 15 minutes longer. Let cool completely on the sheets.
Genoise:
3 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
pinch of salt
¾ cup of sugar
½ cup cake flour - spoon flour into dry-measure cup and level off (also known as cake & pastry flour)
¼ cup cornstarch
1 t vanilla extract
1/2 t almond extract
one (1) 10 x 15 inch jelly-roll pan that has been buttered and lined with parchment paper and then buttered again
1.Set a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees F.
2.Half-fill a medium saucepan with water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat so the water is simmering.
3.Whisk the eggs, egg yolks, salt and sugar together in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer. Place over the pan of simmering water and whisk gently until the mixture is just lukewarm, about 100 degrees if you have a thermometer (or test with your finger - it should be warm to the touch).
4.Attach the bowl to the mixer and, with the whisk attachment, whip on medium-high speed until the egg mixture is cooled (touch the outside of the bowl to tell) and tripled in volume. The egg foam will be thick and will form a slowly dissolving ribbon falling back onto the bowl of whipped eggs when the whisk is lifted.
5.While the eggs are whipping, stir together the flour and cornstarch.
6.Sift one-third of the flour mixture over the beaten eggs. Use a rubber spatula to fold in the flour mixture, making sure to scrape all the way to the bottom of the bowl on every pass through the batter to prevent the flour mixture from accumulating there and making lumps. Repeat with another third of the flour mixture and finally with the remainder. Stir in vanilla and almond (or other flavorings).
7.Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top.
8.Bake the genoise for about 10 to 12 minutes. Make sure the cake doesn’t overbake and become too dry or it will not roll properly.
9.Once the cake is done (a tester will come out clean and if you press the cake lightly it will spring back), remove it from the oven and let it cool on a rack.
Sugar water:
6 T sugar
2/3 c water
optional 3 T of liqueur
In a saucepan combine sugar and water. Bring to a rolling boil, stirring constantly. Cover and remove from heat. Cool completely. Transfer to a measuring cup and add liqueur. Use this sauce to pour over cake before frosting it.
Chocolate frosting:
4 cups confectioners' sugar
1 cup shortening
2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon clear imitation vanilla extract
1/2 cup cocoa powder
In a large bowl, combine sugar, shortening, water and vanilla. Beat on low speed to combine, then beat on medium speed for a full five minutes. It won't look like Icing at first, but keep the mixer going for a full five minutes. Stir in the cocoa. Add additional water if the frosting becomes too thick.
Assembling the yule log:
While the cake is still warm, turn it out of the pan onto a towl sprinkled with powdered sugar. Roll up the cake with the towl. Then unroll, remove towel, and drizzle with some sugar water. Frost it with a layer of chocolate frosting. Next, gently roll up the cake. If it breaks a little, don't worry, you can gently press them back into place. Put the cake in the fridge to rest for an hour or so.
Take the cake out of the fridge. Drizzle with more sugar water. Frost the exterior of the roll being careful to cover the entire cake. You can cover a multitude of sins with frosting. We dip our knives into hot water to make spreading easier. Once the cake is frosted, dip the tines of a fork into hot water and rake gently across the frosting to make a bark pattern on the log.
Dust with powdered sugar and garnish with the mushroom.
potato bread from last month! Somehow I managed to pull it off but not without my brother and refering to The Cake Bible.The yule log cake is an ancient tradition, probably pagan, but now associated with the Christmas holiday season.
The Daring Bakers' challenge comprised three main components: a genoise cake, buttercream frosting, and meringue or marzipan mushroom decorations. None of these elements are easy on their own and in combination I have to confess that this recipe was a bit daunting, especially right before Christmas.
I decided to try this recipe with my brother, who is an accomplished cake baker, with assistance from his two little girls ages three and five. We made the cake at my mother's house. That added another layer of complexity because neither of us were cooking in our own kitchen.We experienced two major yule log disasters: the genoise didn't quite roll up and the buttercream tasted awful! We realized the pound of butter in my mom's fridge was SALTED! (Salted butter is only good melted and for dipping lobster in). So we had to start that over, but that wasn't a bad thing because we decided to make a frosting without butter so lactose intolerant among us could eat it. Neither the genoise nor the mushroom decorations contain dairy.
First I made meringue mushrooms dusted with cocoa powder. They look adorable and exactly like real mushrooms complete with dirt.
The next day we made the genoise. It is made without dairy or a leavener. It relies solely on eggs to make it light. We poured it into a jelly roll pan so it was very thin and only cooked for 10 minutes. When we rolled it up we ran into trouble. The cake didn't quite want to roll up, but we easily remedied that with a liberal use of frosting.
We made the buttercream while the cake was cooking but next time we will make the buttercream before making the cake. It takes longer than 10 minutes to make buttercream. Our first batch of buttercream was an umitigated disaster. We decided to do a non-dairy buttercream for the second batch. It turned out great, though not as great as real buttercream would have been, and it was very easy to spread.
Before rolling up the cake, we drizzled it with sugar water, a treatment for genoise that my brother learned in The Cake Bible. Then frosted the flat cake, rolled it up, and frosted the outside. We used the tines of a fork to give the log a bit of rustic texture. Then we dusted it with powdered sugar for a bit of snow effect and garnished it with the meringue mushrooms. We will eat it on Christmas Eve.RECIPES
Meringue mushrooms:
3 large egg whites, at room temperature
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
½ cup (3-1/2 ounces/105 g.) granulated sugar
1/3 cup (1-1/3 ounces/40 g.) icing sugar
Unsweetened cocoa powder for dusting
1.Preheat the oven to 225 degrees F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment. Have ready a pastry bag fitted with a small (no. 6) plain tip. In a bowl, using a mixer on medium-low speed, beat together the egg whites and cream of tartar until very foamy. Slowly add the granulated sugar while beating. Increase the speed to high and beat until soft peaks form when the beaters are lifted. Continue until the whites hold stiff, shiny peaks. Sift the icing sugar over the whites and, using a rubber spatula, fold in until well blended.
2.Scoop the mixture into the bag. On one baking sheet, pipe 48 stems, each ½ inch (12 mm.) wide at the base and tapering off to a point at the top, ¾ inch (2 cm.) tall, and spaced about ½ inch (12 mm.) apart. On the other sheet, pipe 48 mounds for the tops, each about 1-1/4 inches (3 cm.) wide and ¾ inch (2 cm.) high, also spaced ½ inch (12 mm.) apart. With a damp fingertip, gently smooth any pointy tips. Dust with cocoa. Reserve the remaining meringue.
3.Bake until dry and firm enough to lift off the paper, 50-55 minutes. Set the pans on the counter and turn the mounds flat side up. With the tip of a knife, carefully make a small hole in the flat side of each mound. Pipe small dabs of the remaining meringue into the holes and insert the stems tip first. Return to the oven until completely dry, about 15 minutes longer. Let cool completely on the sheets.
Genoise:
3 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
pinch of salt
¾ cup of sugar
½ cup cake flour - spoon flour into dry-measure cup and level off (also known as cake & pastry flour)
¼ cup cornstarch
1 t vanilla extract
1/2 t almond extract
one (1) 10 x 15 inch jelly-roll pan that has been buttered and lined with parchment paper and then buttered again
1.Set a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees F.
2.Half-fill a medium saucepan with water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat so the water is simmering.
3.Whisk the eggs, egg yolks, salt and sugar together in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer. Place over the pan of simmering water and whisk gently until the mixture is just lukewarm, about 100 degrees if you have a thermometer (or test with your finger - it should be warm to the touch).
4.Attach the bowl to the mixer and, with the whisk attachment, whip on medium-high speed until the egg mixture is cooled (touch the outside of the bowl to tell) and tripled in volume. The egg foam will be thick and will form a slowly dissolving ribbon falling back onto the bowl of whipped eggs when the whisk is lifted.
5.While the eggs are whipping, stir together the flour and cornstarch.
6.Sift one-third of the flour mixture over the beaten eggs. Use a rubber spatula to fold in the flour mixture, making sure to scrape all the way to the bottom of the bowl on every pass through the batter to prevent the flour mixture from accumulating there and making lumps. Repeat with another third of the flour mixture and finally with the remainder. Stir in vanilla and almond (or other flavorings).
7.Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top.
8.Bake the genoise for about 10 to 12 minutes. Make sure the cake doesn’t overbake and become too dry or it will not roll properly.
9.Once the cake is done (a tester will come out clean and if you press the cake lightly it will spring back), remove it from the oven and let it cool on a rack.
Sugar water:
6 T sugar
2/3 c water
optional 3 T of liqueur
In a saucepan combine sugar and water. Bring to a rolling boil, stirring constantly. Cover and remove from heat. Cool completely. Transfer to a measuring cup and add liqueur. Use this sauce to pour over cake before frosting it.
Chocolate frosting:
4 cups confectioners' sugar
1 cup shortening
2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon clear imitation vanilla extract
1/2 cup cocoa powder
In a large bowl, combine sugar, shortening, water and vanilla. Beat on low speed to combine, then beat on medium speed for a full five minutes. It won't look like Icing at first, but keep the mixer going for a full five minutes. Stir in the cocoa. Add additional water if the frosting becomes too thick.
Assembling the yule log:
While the cake is still warm, turn it out of the pan onto a towl sprinkled with powdered sugar. Roll up the cake with the towl. Then unroll, remove towel, and drizzle with some sugar water. Frost it with a layer of chocolate frosting. Next, gently roll up the cake. If it breaks a little, don't worry, you can gently press them back into place. Put the cake in the fridge to rest for an hour or so.
Take the cake out of the fridge. Drizzle with more sugar water. Frost the exterior of the roll being careful to cover the entire cake. You can cover a multitude of sins with frosting. We dip our knives into hot water to make spreading easier. Once the cake is frosted, dip the tines of a fork into hot water and rake gently across the frosting to make a bark pattern on the log.
Dust with powdered sugar and garnish with the mushroom.
Thursday, August 30, 2007
Chocolate and butterscotch sauces
These sauces are wonderful on ice cream and are so simple. Never buy a squeeze bottle of Hersey's chocolate sauce again! You could do a rockin' banana split with these. Alternatively pour them on cake or brownies or just eat them w/ a spoon! The quality of the sauces depends on the quality of the ingredients.
For the chocolate, I tend to use Callebaut dark chocolate, good unsalted butter, and Tahitian vanilla extract. I like the chocolate sauce with coffee ice cream. Butterscotch is good on butter pecan. But nothing beats plain old vanilla. Get the Dreamery brand of vanilla if you can find it. It won the highest marks from a Cooks' Illustrated blind taste test.
Chocolate sauce:
4 oz bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
4 T (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1/4 c. sugar
pinch of salt
1/4 c. water
1t vanilla extract
1. Combine all ingredients in a small saucepan except vanilla. Cook, stirring, over low heat until melted.
2. Stir in vanilla. Serve immediately.
Butterscotch sauce:
3/4 c. heavy cream
6 T unsalted butter cut into pieces
3/4 c. brown sugar
pinch of salt
1. Combine cream and butter in a small saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally until the butter melts.
2. Stir in the sugar and salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is think and shiny, 5 to 10 minutes. Taste it and add more sugar if needed. Serve immediately.
For the chocolate, I tend to use Callebaut dark chocolate, good unsalted butter, and Tahitian vanilla extract. I like the chocolate sauce with coffee ice cream. Butterscotch is good on butter pecan. But nothing beats plain old vanilla. Get the Dreamery brand of vanilla if you can find it. It won the highest marks from a Cooks' Illustrated blind taste test.
Chocolate sauce:
4 oz bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
4 T (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1/4 c. sugar
pinch of salt
1/4 c. water
1t vanilla extract
1. Combine all ingredients in a small saucepan except vanilla. Cook, stirring, over low heat until melted.
2. Stir in vanilla. Serve immediately.
Butterscotch sauce:
3/4 c. heavy cream
6 T unsalted butter cut into pieces
3/4 c. brown sugar
pinch of salt
1. Combine cream and butter in a small saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally until the butter melts.
2. Stir in the sugar and salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is think and shiny, 5 to 10 minutes. Taste it and add more sugar if needed. Serve immediately.
Wednesday, June 6, 2007
Lies, damn lies, and marketing
In a very round about way, I stumbled across a fellow food blogger in Dallas. At the end of 2006 he did a very compelling set of 10 postings about a luxury chocolatier called Noka once he realized that people spending 80 bucks on 4 tiny tiny pieces of chocolate were basically buying chocolate at the rate of $2000/lb. The story is a good read. I am way too lazy to endeavor such an investigative report on my blog, so I relish in delight when other people have done these things.
He discovers that Noka is all about marketing. The company uses words very cleverly to persuade people to pay a premium for a "luxury" chocolate that costs them about $11/lb. wholesale. In addition, the company saves expense by not having any true craftsmanship. Noka is selling a dream of the simple luxury of pure chocolate unencumbered by (gasp!) vanilla or (heaven forbid!) caramel.
The blogger would probably say that their marketing crosses the line of creative license into the realm of pretence and, I daresay, fraudulence.
Noka might say the blogger crosses the line of investigative journalism into the realm of calumny.
Either way, it is an entertaining read!
And I don't know about you but I'm not paying more money for a pound of chocolate than I spend on clothes in an entire year.
He discovers that Noka is all about marketing. The company uses words very cleverly to persuade people to pay a premium for a "luxury" chocolate that costs them about $11/lb. wholesale. In addition, the company saves expense by not having any true craftsmanship. Noka is selling a dream of the simple luxury of pure chocolate unencumbered by (gasp!) vanilla or (heaven forbid!) caramel.
The blogger would probably say that their marketing crosses the line of creative license into the realm of pretence and, I daresay, fraudulence.
Noka might say the blogger crosses the line of investigative journalism into the realm of calumny.
Either way, it is an entertaining read!
And I don't know about you but I'm not paying more money for a pound of chocolate than I spend on clothes in an entire year.
Sunday, April 29, 2007
Dinner party: Dessert
Dessert last night was a huge, smashing success! I made Nigella Lawson's chocolate, molten babycake recipe again. Everyone raved and one friend asked me for the recipe.
I love dessert, especially chocolate ones. It is SUCH a disappointment when a chocolate cake or dessert looks and sounds great but isn't. I had this happen not long ago when I was at Nana's in Durham. My friend and I shared a piece of chocolate cake but it was dry and tasteless.
On the other hand, this recipe from Nigella will never disappoint. In addition to being a crowd pleaser, it is very hard to screw up. Best of all, it is out of this world delicious. If any food could ever be a religious experience, this would be it. It's like a truffle in a bowl. In one simple dish my need for all things chocolate (cake, frosting, truffle, and mousse) is fulfilled.
That is perfection!
I love dessert, especially chocolate ones. It is SUCH a disappointment when a chocolate cake or dessert looks and sounds great but isn't. I had this happen not long ago when I was at Nana's in Durham. My friend and I shared a piece of chocolate cake but it was dry and tasteless.
On the other hand, this recipe from Nigella will never disappoint. In addition to being a crowd pleaser, it is very hard to screw up. Best of all, it is out of this world delicious. If any food could ever be a religious experience, this would be it. It's like a truffle in a bowl. In one simple dish my need for all things chocolate (cake, frosting, truffle, and mousse) is fulfilled.
That is perfection!
Wednesday, April 11, 2007
NYT Brownie recipes
This is a good week of recipes in the New York Times. Often the recipes are too frou frou or esoteric even for me. And that's saying something!
Imagine my delight to see three, yes THREE, brownie recipes accompanying an article by Julie Moskin called "Simple Pleasure, American Style." The article is a delightful essay on the history and development of an American original: the brownie. As we've become more sophisticated, so have our brownies. Once they had only a scant 2 ounces of chocolate. That's not enough chocolate for anything! Happily progress has led us to prefer 70% bittersweet Caillebaut and Sharffenberger.
The NYT archives articles after a week and they charge a fee for accessing archive materials, so print your brownie recipes now. I'm going to try the recipe that verges on chocolate truffledom first. Hopefully I will try all of them eventually.
The problem w/ making a pan of brownies is that I am tempted to eat them singlehandedly!
Imagine my delight to see three, yes THREE, brownie recipes accompanying an article by Julie Moskin called "Simple Pleasure, American Style." The article is a delightful essay on the history and development of an American original: the brownie. As we've become more sophisticated, so have our brownies. Once they had only a scant 2 ounces of chocolate. That's not enough chocolate for anything! Happily progress has led us to prefer 70% bittersweet Caillebaut and Sharffenberger.
The NYT archives articles after a week and they charge a fee for accessing archive materials, so print your brownie recipes now. I'm going to try the recipe that verges on chocolate truffledom first. Hopefully I will try all of them eventually.
The problem w/ making a pan of brownies is that I am tempted to eat them singlehandedly!
Sunday, February 25, 2007
Chocolates!
My priest said that 80% of the people who give up something for Lent give up chocolate. I guess that is not so surprising because it does seem to be a guilty pleasure for many people. Coffee is another one the people give up. I, Epicurian that I am, did not give up chocolate or coffee (I'd commit crimes against humanity if I gave up coffee). Anyway, it's good to give up small, daily pleasures during Lent.
Having said that, I'm going to torture those of you who gave up chocolate by writing about it. Please don't consider it torture, but consider it looking forward to Easter!
My dear sweet parents sent me a box of gorgeous chocolates for no particular reason other than my mom thought they would make me smile. Right she was! Last week a box of 21 chocolates from a new chocolatier in Kansas City (of all places) named Christopher Elbow arrived. These are not Russell Stovers (also from Kansas City). Rather they are individually, hand-made chocolates of fresh ingredients. The fillings are not your run of the mill strawberry, vanilla creme or caramel but rather strawberry and balsamic, caramel with pear and cinnamon, and Tahitian vanilla bean. My mom's favorite one is rosemary caramel. I am saving it for last. Some of the flavors are more interesting than delicious like the Russian tea chocolate which was chocolate flavored with bergamot tea. Strange but still delightful even though I wouldn't eat a whole box of bergamot flavored chocolates. The best part of Elbow's chocolates (besides the word "chocolate") is that they are so pretty. Each one looks like it was hand-painted with bright colors and even gold dust. Christopher Elbow's web site shows the various flavors and their pictures and you can order them online.
My other very favorite choclates are from England and are called Charbonnel et Walker. Charbonnel et Walker is the grande dame of English chocolatiers. Before Cadbury there were Mme. Charbonnel and Mrs. Walker. When I was a student in England, I would take the train from Cambridge (where I lived) down to London several times a week for my evening classes. Very often I would go down early to wander the streets and museums. One of my favorite rambles is around Bond Street where Charbonnel is located. I was broke, being a student and all, so I could only buy one or two chocolates at a time. The Charbonnel chocolates employ more cream and butter than Mr. Elbow's. They also tend towards more traditional fillings. Mrs. Walker would probably turn in her grave at the very idea of a chocolate bonbon filled w/ hot chili pepper. Imagine my delight, thank goodness for the information superhighway, to find that Charbonnel et Walker has a web site and they take international orders. What cracks me up about Charbonnel is that they sell 2KG boxes of chocolate. That's like 4lbs of chocolate. I love chocolate but how what would one do with 4lbs of very expensive chocolates? The great news is that Charbonnel has a brand, new store in NYC called Cafe Charbonnel. It's located in Saks Fifth Avenue at 611 Fifth Ave. Besides the boxed chocolates they sell homemade chocolate desserts and hot cocoa.
My very favorite chocolate wonder is the truffle. And I don't mean some gargantuan thing w/ a hard chocolate shell. I mean those ugly, little pure chocolate and butter balls covered in messy cocoa without nuts or alcohol. I've eaten truffles all over and I've even made them myself. Talk about a big mess in the kitchen! I had melted chocolate and butter up to my shoulders and all over my face and hair. I guess it's no bad thing to be covered head to toe in chocolate. BUT make it easier on yourself and just run down to A Southern Season in Chapel Hill and buy their own brand of truffles. Words cannot describe how tasty they are. They are melt-in-your-mouth fabulous. A Southern Season also sells them online. If you try them, just get the traditional ones and not the ones with caramel or chocolate nibs (what is a nib?).
Belgian chocolates underwhelm me, even when I've been to Belgium. They all taste the same: that is full of hazelnut ganache. Not a bad thing but I'll take my hazelnut/chocolate combo in Nutella, thanks.
Having said that, I'm going to torture those of you who gave up chocolate by writing about it. Please don't consider it torture, but consider it looking forward to Easter!
My dear sweet parents sent me a box of gorgeous chocolates for no particular reason other than my mom thought they would make me smile. Right she was! Last week a box of 21 chocolates from a new chocolatier in Kansas City (of all places) named Christopher Elbow arrived. These are not Russell Stovers (also from Kansas City). Rather they are individually, hand-made chocolates of fresh ingredients. The fillings are not your run of the mill strawberry, vanilla creme or caramel but rather strawberry and balsamic, caramel with pear and cinnamon, and Tahitian vanilla bean. My mom's favorite one is rosemary caramel. I am saving it for last. Some of the flavors are more interesting than delicious like the Russian tea chocolate which was chocolate flavored with bergamot tea. Strange but still delightful even though I wouldn't eat a whole box of bergamot flavored chocolates. The best part of Elbow's chocolates (besides the word "chocolate") is that they are so pretty. Each one looks like it was hand-painted with bright colors and even gold dust. Christopher Elbow's web site shows the various flavors and their pictures and you can order them online.
My other very favorite choclates are from England and are called Charbonnel et Walker. Charbonnel et Walker is the grande dame of English chocolatiers. Before Cadbury there were Mme. Charbonnel and Mrs. Walker. When I was a student in England, I would take the train from Cambridge (where I lived) down to London several times a week for my evening classes. Very often I would go down early to wander the streets and museums. One of my favorite rambles is around Bond Street where Charbonnel is located. I was broke, being a student and all, so I could only buy one or two chocolates at a time. The Charbonnel chocolates employ more cream and butter than Mr. Elbow's. They also tend towards more traditional fillings. Mrs. Walker would probably turn in her grave at the very idea of a chocolate bonbon filled w/ hot chili pepper. Imagine my delight, thank goodness for the information superhighway, to find that Charbonnel et Walker has a web site and they take international orders. What cracks me up about Charbonnel is that they sell 2KG boxes of chocolate. That's like 4lbs of chocolate. I love chocolate but how what would one do with 4lbs of very expensive chocolates? The great news is that Charbonnel has a brand, new store in NYC called Cafe Charbonnel. It's located in Saks Fifth Avenue at 611 Fifth Ave. Besides the boxed chocolates they sell homemade chocolate desserts and hot cocoa.
My very favorite chocolate wonder is the truffle. And I don't mean some gargantuan thing w/ a hard chocolate shell. I mean those ugly, little pure chocolate and butter balls covered in messy cocoa without nuts or alcohol. I've eaten truffles all over and I've even made them myself. Talk about a big mess in the kitchen! I had melted chocolate and butter up to my shoulders and all over my face and hair. I guess it's no bad thing to be covered head to toe in chocolate. BUT make it easier on yourself and just run down to A Southern Season in Chapel Hill and buy their own brand of truffles. Words cannot describe how tasty they are. They are melt-in-your-mouth fabulous. A Southern Season also sells them online. If you try them, just get the traditional ones and not the ones with caramel or chocolate nibs (what is a nib?).
Belgian chocolates underwhelm me, even when I've been to Belgium. They all taste the same: that is full of hazelnut ganache. Not a bad thing but I'll take my hazelnut/chocolate combo in Nutella, thanks.
Saturday, January 27, 2007
Chocolate molten cakes: better than...
you know what. Seriously.
I had a dinner party last night. Much more to come on that in future posts. In a rather backwards fashion, I'm going to start w/ dessert. I made a recipe from page 179 of Nigella Lawson's How to Be a Domestic Goddess called molten chocolate babycakes.
These are individual molten cakes (aka pudding cakes, lava cakes, etc) cooked in custard cups. They are quite possibly the easiest, most elegant and most delicious dessert EVER. They got rave reviews from "this is the best dessert I've ever eaten" to "this is sex in a bowl." Thanks, Nigella Lawson! I only followed the directions.
So here it is (am I breaking copywright laws?):
Scant 1/4 c. soft unsalted butter
12 oz. bittersweet chocolate (I used Sharfenbergers 70%)
1/2 c. sugar
4 large eggs
pinch of salt
1 t. vanilla
1/3 c. flour
6 individual 6oz custard cups or ramekins buttered
Preheat oven to 400. Cut circles out of baking parchment to fit the bottoms of cups and place in cups. Put cups on a cookie sheet.
Melt chocolate in microwave or over a bain-marie. Cream together butter and sugar, beat in eggs one at a time and add the pinch of salt then the vanilla. Add the flour and when combined, add the slightly cooled chocolate. Mix until smooth. Divide batter between custard cups. Cook for 12 -14 minutes (I had to cook mine for 14 min). The exterior should look set and cake-like. The inside will still be gooey. Turn out onto plates and serve w/ creme fraiche.
You could serve w/ ice cream or whipped cream, but the slight tartness of the creme fraiche provides a sophisticated contrast to the sweetness of the cake.
This dessert will make you happy to be alive!
I had a dinner party last night. Much more to come on that in future posts. In a rather backwards fashion, I'm going to start w/ dessert. I made a recipe from page 179 of Nigella Lawson's How to Be a Domestic Goddess called molten chocolate babycakes.
These are individual molten cakes (aka pudding cakes, lava cakes, etc) cooked in custard cups. They are quite possibly the easiest, most elegant and most delicious dessert EVER. They got rave reviews from "this is the best dessert I've ever eaten" to "this is sex in a bowl." Thanks, Nigella Lawson! I only followed the directions.
So here it is (am I breaking copywright laws?):
Scant 1/4 c. soft unsalted butter
12 oz. bittersweet chocolate (I used Sharfenbergers 70%)
1/2 c. sugar
4 large eggs
pinch of salt
1 t. vanilla
1/3 c. flour
6 individual 6oz custard cups or ramekins buttered
Preheat oven to 400. Cut circles out of baking parchment to fit the bottoms of cups and place in cups. Put cups on a cookie sheet.
Melt chocolate in microwave or over a bain-marie. Cream together butter and sugar, beat in eggs one at a time and add the pinch of salt then the vanilla. Add the flour and when combined, add the slightly cooled chocolate. Mix until smooth. Divide batter between custard cups. Cook for 12 -14 minutes (I had to cook mine for 14 min). The exterior should look set and cake-like. The inside will still be gooey. Turn out onto plates and serve w/ creme fraiche.
You could serve w/ ice cream or whipped cream, but the slight tartness of the creme fraiche provides a sophisticated contrast to the sweetness of the cake.
This dessert will make you happy to be alive!
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